MANOLO
New York, 1985–Present Legacy and visionary of the 90s NYC fashion.
For over four decades, Manolo has operated at the intersection of couture technique, repurposed materials, and cultural narrative.
He introduced the concept of ready couture: the marriage of high tailoring and unconventional materials, constructed entirely by hand. Long before sustainability entered the fashion lexicon, Manolo was transforming found textiles into garments that interrogated notions of value, craft, and luxury.
One unforgettable highlight was the dramatic “Devil’s outfit” he created for model Veruschka, photographed by Karl Lagerfeld for Interview magazine—a moment that cemented his reputation for theatrical innovation. Through material, silhouette, and process, Manolo’s practice continues to challenge ideas of value, representation, and sustainability in contemporary fashion.
His archive, spanning 1985 to 2005, is now available for editorial, film, and production rentals.
Over the years, Manolo has dressed cultural icons including
Alicia Silverstone · Berri Smither · Björk · Britney Spears · Celia Cruz · Christy Turlington · Daryll Hanna · Diana Ross · Emily Watson · Eva Herzigová · George Clinton · Gretchen Mol · Gwyenth Paltrow · Janet Jackson · Kate Moss · Kim Basinger · Lady Kier Kirby · Mary J. Blige · Mayte Garcia · Naomi Watts · PHINA ORUCHE · Prince · Stephen Petronio · Tracee Ellis Ross · Zang Ziyi
NEW YORK
In New York’s downtown art and fashion scene of the late 1980s and early 1990s, Manolo became known for turning everyday materials into garments that challenged conventional luxury. His early work drew attention from editors, artists, and designers.
His shows were performative and political, casting an all-Black lineup long before diversity was an industry concern. Collaborating with musicians, performers, and visual artists, he created pieces that were both costume and canvas.
IN THE EARLY 1980S, MANOLO BEGAN WITH HATS, SOURCING MATERIALS FROM THE CITY—DAMASK FROM DISCARDED FURNITURE, COILS FROM ALLEYWAYS, VELVET FROM THE STREET. HIS SCULPTURAL HATS, INCLUDING ONE WITH A VENETIAN GONDOLA ATOP A STRUCTURED BASE, GAINED EDITORIAL ATTENTION AND A DEVOTED CLIENTELE.
ORIGINS
Born in Havana. Raised in a multigenerational household of eleven women, all cigar makers and seamstresses, who cultivated his respect for craft, material, and ritual.
AS A CHILD, HE DELIVERED HIS MOTHER'S EMBROIDERY TO CLIENTS ACROSS THE CITY, LEARNING THE ARCHITECTURE OF STITCHING BEFORE HE COULD NAME IT. SMALL ACTS OF SELF-EXPRESSION EMERGED EARLY. HE ONCE ALTERED A PAIR OF GOVERNMENT-ISSUED SHOES WITH A RAZOR BLADE, RESHAPING THEM INTO SOMETHING THAT FELT LIKE HIS OWN
Following the Cuban Revolution, his family spent four years awaiting permission to leave the country before emigrating to Miami. Arriving without English, Manolo developed an interior world shaped by memory, improvisation, and what he describes as enchantment.
THE ARCHIVE
The Manolo Archive houses original garments from 1985 to 2005, including pieces created for Janet Jackson, styled for Diana Ross, and featured in major international publications. Select works are available for editorial, film, and production rental
VIEW ARCHIVES